How Big Wave Surfers Prepare
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Ouch! Grant "Twiggy" Baker on a massive wipeout. |
I was lucky enough to meet some totally radical big wave surfers through researching the Pleasure Point Series.
Grant "Twiggy" Baker from South Africa turned out to be one of the most stoked, generous, lovable and did I mention good looking surfers I met.
Here are some excerpts from my research, both questions I asked Twig, and through interviews by the World Surf League: Enjoy!
Email from me:
I’ve completed the first draft of my book. My big wave surfer goes to Todos Santos and has a near death experience on a four-wave hold down.
And his answer:
Firstly there's no such thing as a four-wave hold down. We survive two waves but three will drown us and four is unheard of.
Oops! My character almost didn't survive the first page of the book!
What are your training and lifestyle like?
I just try to surf as much as possible to stay in shape and, especially, as much as possible in large surf. There's no substitute for this as it directly influences your mental state on the biggest days. I back that up with swimming lengths in a pool, kiteboarding, and SUP [stand-up paddling] as well as yoga.
And in his spare time? (yeah, he gets to be a character in my books!)
Unlike most professional surfers, you don't have the luxury of knowing months in advance when you'll be competing, or where. How does the nature of last-minute calls impact your daily life in terms of training, relationships, and mental health?
It's not bad at all, and I have no complaints; we only have to compete for a maximum of 10 days a year, so it's pretty easy. You just need to make sure you are always ready mentally and physically and never make any plans for the future like weddings, birthdays, or anniversaries.
Just as long as he doesn't miss his own wedding!
What happens from the moment you get the call for a BWWT Green Alert (the official contest call, 48 hours prior to start date) to when you're paddling out for your heat?
I just get ready to travel, really. It's always a long way to wherever I'm going from South Africa, so I normally have to jump on a plane immediately. So it's all about confirming tickets, packing up and rushing to the airport. No time to think or waste once the green light is on!
And leave his girlfriend behind? Yep, sometimes.
What do you think about and do on the flights, buses, and car rides to an event site before a contest? Are you tense? Excited? Playing Words with Friends with the other Top 12?
(Laughs) None of the above!! I just sleep as much as possible and try to imagine what the waves are going to be like while staying calm. It's such a gift to be able to travel to these amazing places and surf these incredible waves with only six guys out, so that's what I try to focus on.
I would've picked playing Words with Friends.
Big wave surfers are my heroes. I became even more awed and inspired by meeting and interviewing these remarkable athletes. I hope you are too.
If you want to read about Jax Priest, the character who came to life through my research, here's the link to the first book in the series:
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